Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Large Wednesday

don't think it's deserving to call some So-Cal spots like county line @ 6' to 8' "big Wednesday". just doesn't feel right when you consider the size hitting in no-cal. but anyways for me it was more just good to make another steep in my back recovery. kind of sectiony but I still got a couple decent ones. also got pulverized by a 2 wave set that the 1st wave could easily be called 10'. I was just inside the lip impacting the bottom and took the full force of the whitewash. my back is now starting to hate me for trying to duck dive that beast.





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