Saturday, September 29, 2007

Secret Spot

somewhere north of Mammoth. Taken maybe 3 years ago now. Beautiful country in CA's backyard. only if I had a snowmobile, avalanche beacon, and sometime to ride with. Insane untouched powder for hours of driving around this place that I'm sure is rarely touched.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Funny stuff

Asian guy complaining about other "bad" drivers. Ok, I know that sounds racist and I honestly don't use race to judge people. I let their actions dictate my viewpoint. BUT since this guy throws out racial bombs everywhere I'll join in. Examples of his tirades: Red necks, Italians ("Jersey Barriers"), Dirt people, senior citizens, the handicapped, blond chicks, etc. talk about hating! guy needs to look in the mirror. lot of his complaints are so nit picky. Problem with LA traffic is people just don't move. this dude would probably have a heart attack if he saw me flying up on his ass in his rear view mirror. Driving is a sport.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Today's swell review


closed out:

should have been no surprise as this is a typical summer south swell.
Please bring on winter!

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Totally Rad!

my fat ass can't get that tweeked out.
felt good to get back in the water today. this swell is either overhyped, bad angel for LA, or just now starting to show up. Think I vote for #1. but The Point was surprising fun. more consistent than County Line (above was the main set during about 15 minute watch period). took out the longboard to get my bearings straight and had some fun ones. couldn't do the whole session just cruzin' so went in and got the fish. size dead when I switched boards, probably due to the low tide. but got some decent ones. ego boost was that I was pretty much the better guy out there even with a bum leg and back.

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Bob goes electronic

got this today from as part of my KCRW pledge.

Friday, September 21, 2007

Broken ass

full sequence:
(not me or anyone I know, just some crazy nut job who probably couldn't sit down for a year afterwards)


Thursday, September 20, 2007

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Best I can come up with

my photography skills aren't that great. but I like this pic. NLA just before sunset think it was Apr 2004 during that big south swell

Monday, September 17, 2007

Deer in headlights

God damn! I hate when that happens!
person with the red board is perfect example. MOVE!

Dream Job

sitting on the back of a truck picking up traffic cones. money & benefits have to be pretty good as it's a city/county job. better than working for a mega corporation dealing with political infighting, SOX, India outsourced A/P, having to go thru a lengthy form process just to get IT to fix a simple problem, lazy Euro's, etc. I need a career change. Hanging off a truck looks fun.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Scenic drive

since there was no surf. figured I drive the coast and do some soft sand beach walking to help strengthen my legs. few images from a sunny but windy day

The smell of surfing in Ventura county


sometimes the drive literally STINKS! guess why there are still a few uncrowded secret spots?
but today it was just mostly wind slop

More overhyping

Surfline: "2-3 ft - knee to waist high and poor+ conditions. PM REGIONAL OVERVIEW: We have building SW energy on tap this afternoon."

Wetsand: "Today (Sunday) we have some moderately sized southern hemi SW swell along the California coast with just a hint of NW wind swell. "

so there was supposed to be a new swell hitting yesterday and building today? doesn't look like. pretty much junk out there. at least Surfline got the "poor conditions" part right. Oh well figuring my bad legs and back might have been for the best there was no surf today. don't know how I would have done out there.

Friday, September 14, 2007


I better start getting use to wearing booties, a hood, and gloves cause this might be the solution for getting away from the So-Cal crowds

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

That shit is the bomb!

forgot I had some Tiger Balm. my leg is starting to feel a little better after using some Tiger Balm. that's saying a lot figuring Saturday night I couldn't even lift my left foot off the ground.

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Labor day madness

bumber to bumber as far as the eye can see in the north bound lane on th PCH in Malibu around 2pm. why do people put up with this sh*t? better yet, why am I still in LA putting up with this sh*t?

No one likes me

or at least when taking surf pictures. only have had a couple pictures of me taken while surfing and see guys on the beach all the time. case in point:

I was in the water during that time and caught two of the biggest set waves but still no love

Scientist confirm the obvious - Part 2

of course depression can be more damaging than asthma! I've never heard of anyone committing suicide because of asthma. but I sure as hell know suicide is a problem with people who suffer from depression. Nothing is more damaging the the human body than death.

Sorry, for the negativity but F*CK I've been in intense pain for 2 days now with no end in sight.

Damn you piriformis muscle!

little searching and I now have a better idea of what's causing my sciatica problem. the muscle in my hip is pinching the nerve

last two days have probably been the absolute worst for pain. I can't even stand up or sit down with excruciating pain. stretching is a biatch and 10 halves. it's all the piriformis muscle! it feels like i need to pop/crack my hip joint but just can't do it. F*CK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Must have album - Best of Cymande

Caribbean reggae-ish soul funk, if there is such a thing. overall good grooves. found this courtesy of The Drop on KCRW (damn....I have a crush on liza richardson....and she surfs!)

Scientist confirm the obvious - Part 1

who'da thunk exercising is good for your heart?

why Part 1? Because there seems to endless supply of these retard news stories on Yahoo. I should have a science major and later get government grants for this lame research ideas. I've got one! Studies show when eating food you gain weight when survey on a group of people who do not exercise. Now pay me a $1 million grant! Seriously, are governments just handing money out left and right for this crap? It's too good to be true!

Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Think you're tough?

after daydreaming about the wave for a few seconds, check out the guy about to paddle out. that's right biatches, no wetsuit in the dead of winter in Ventura. yeah, it ain't hardcore No-Cal, but that water is definitely in the mid-50's. don't know the guy's name, but I've seen him out a lot at Strand and Stabbles. the most amount of wetsuit I've seen him wear in maybe 4 years is a springsuit when the water got pretty DAMN cold back in Jan07-ish. A SPRINGSUIT when everyone else, myself included, was running to the local shop to buy new 4/3's, booties, hoods, gloves, etc. plus the guy charges good size Strand! He's what surfing needs more of. Or maybe we should have greater appreciation of the guys back in the 60's surfing California winters without wetsuits. so every time someone complains about the cold water in So-Cal, again myself included, you need to STFU! peace

Saturday, September 1, 2007

supposedly it was 4' to 5' at Leo Carrillo right around 2:15pm

well I was there at 1:30pm-ish and this was the biggest wave to come thu in about a ten minute span. the rest the time it was pretty much flat. this was right around high tide so that's the only time today there was even a slit chance of seeing something close to's report

conclusion: don't trust plus Sean Collins gets his jollys by throwing rocks at girls!