Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Merry X-Mass!

Happy Holidays and Aloha to all

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Surfing is no longer cool.....pass it on

this guy came to realization mid ride and immediately quit. more should follow in his footsteps

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

The end is near

can I get a bad surf report to go along some overpriced surf T-shirts?
WTF is wetsand doing opening a surfshop. Haven't they done enough harm with their consistently wrong surf reporting? And it's in Ventura no less! I knew The Point has gotten out of control with longboarding donkeys, but still they can shop at Val Surf where they belong. Guess those donkeys think they've graduated to shorter boards and think normal surfers shop at high priced botique shops. This signals Ventura's decline as a respectable surf town.

Monday, December 17, 2007

Totally uncalled for

booties, gloves, and a hood to surf SS on saturday. when I took this pic I was about 70 degrees outside. the gloves and hood are absolutely unnecessary. extra donkey points for the guy having a Surftech board (tough to see in the picture). SUCH a shame how these donkeys are getting away with surfing SS and making the place too crowded. Back when I was a kid, I feared surfing there until I was about 17. at that point I could somewhat defend myself in a fight and had a car to make a quick getaway. But the only hope still is the ocean itself. when I gets bigger at SS the crowd does thin out a bit and if there's a current running that will clear the line up fast

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Sunday, December 9, 2007

Friday, December 7, 2007

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Something needs to be done

things are getting out of control at So-cal beaches. each of the three guys to the left in the pic, their actions are uncalled for. guy off his board - get out of the water. 2nd longboarder further outside - look to the inside you jackass. shortboarder on the inside - look behind and inside you donkey. if we don't do something soon I fear the spots I surf will end up like this mess
maybe localism wasn't such a bad thing?

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Large Wednesday

don't think it's deserving to call some So-Cal spots like county line @ 6' to 8' "big Wednesday". just doesn't feel right when you consider the size hitting in no-cal. but anyways for me it was more just good to make another steep in my back recovery. kind of sectiony but I still got a couple decent ones. also got pulverized by a 2 wave set that the 1st wave could easily be called 10'. I was just inside the lip impacting the bottom and took the full force of the whitewash. my back is now starting to hate me for trying to duck dive that beast.

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Pretty big Tuesday - part 3

even further down the coast. didn't expect much of anything down here as it was only about 2' on the drive up. pleasantly surprised. not as big. looked more playful.

towing at his size is uncalled for

Pretty big Tuesday - part 2

further down the coast where I thought it'd be just monstrous (at least for So-Cal). Big, but maybe just a little bigger than the point. some sets look kind of clean. others where just chaotic chop nightmares.

almost a clean big A-frame

only one guy out at the time and he managed to get a decent one in.

the peanut gallery

Pretty big Tuesday

Weee....1st time in the water here in CA since labor day! Damn.....I forgot it's tough to paddle with a wetsuit on. Even with a 3/2 my shoulders were TIRED! But I still managed the paddle taking off at the end of the parking lot at Stables and make it outside. Took a bunch of waves on the head and got dragged down the beach....but I did it! Not too many guys in the water out there so got to say just paddling out was an ego boost for me, figuring 2 3/4th months ago I could only lift my left leg 1/2" off the ground and it'd take me about 10 minutes to get out of bed. So take that all you funboarding kooks! I paddled out today some decent size with a good current after months of rehab while you're at lesser exposed spots. True I only caught one wave cause it was a BIATCH and 1/2 to get on the peak. Would say it's was a solid 6' to 8' with 10' sets. the sets where pretty much closed out. but not too major as this swell is junky and the bigger waves weren't breaking top to bottom. Tomorrow up there will just be a nasty mess. it's getting bigger and starting to break at the end of Ventura pier. Waves are hitting about 3/4 up the pier columns.

some pics of the Point
medium size in-betweener
set wave

bending out to sea

another set

REALLY bending. that's what made paddling back out after a wave hard

just ask these two kids getting worked