Weee....1st time in the water here in CA since labor day! Damn.....I forgot it's tough to paddle with a wetsuit on. Even with a 3/2 my shoulders were TIRED! But I still managed the paddle taking off at the end of the parking lot at Stables and make it outside. Took a bunch of waves on the head and got dragged down the beach....but I did it! Not too many guys in the water out there so got to say just paddling out was an ego boost for me, figuring 2 3/4th months ago I could only lift my left leg 1/2" off the ground and it'd take me about 10 minutes to get out of bed. So take that all you funboarding kooks! I paddled out today some decent size with a good current after months of rehab while you're at lesser exposed spots. True I only caught one wave cause it was a BIATCH and 1/2 to get on the peak. Would say it's was a solid 6' to 8' with 10' sets. the sets where pretty much closed out. but not too major as this swell is junky and the bigger waves weren't breaking top to bottom. Tomorrow up there will just be a nasty mess. it's getting bigger and starting to break at the end of Ventura pier. Waves are hitting about 3/4 up the pier columns.
some pics of the Point
medium size in-betweener
REALLY bending. that's what made paddling back out after a wave hard
just ask these two kids getting worked
some pics of the Point
medium size in-betweener
set wave
bending out to sea
another set
bending out to sea
another set
REALLY bending. that's what made paddling back out after a wave hard
just ask these two kids getting worked
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