my fat ass can't get that tweeked out.
felt good to get back in the water today. this swell is either overhyped, bad angel for LA, or just now starting to show up. Think I vote for #1. but The Point was surprising fun. more consistent than County Line (above was the main set during about 15 minute watch period). took out the longboard to get my bearings straight and had some fun ones. couldn't do the whole session just cruzin' so went in and got the fish. size dead when I switched boards, probably due to the low tide. but got some decent ones. ego boost was that I was pretty much the better guy out there even with a bum leg and back.
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